Hot, Happy, Hungover, Halong Bay

Well now. Just back from a 3 day trip to Halong Bay and it was fantastic. The sun even decided to come out and we got a roasting today on the boat back.Day one (wednesday) we got a boat at Halong Harbour. OUr group was a ixed bunch of old people and young people. We had an israeli couple iin their 40s and a retired spanish couple who were really nice (and mad to go to Karaoke).Had lunch on the boat and it was a bit cloudy but the 3000 islands in the bay look impressive in any weather. We visited some big cave and then later got into the water for kayaking and swimming which was great crack. Then we all piled back onto the boat for a nice feast and a few drinks.Day 2 we were woken at 7 for breakfast and then brought to Cat Ba island and checked into a hotel there. We were brought to HOspital Cave which was hidden in a mountain to treat vietnamese soldiers during the war. Our guide in there was some mad former army general and he kept lining us up and singing to us. It was all pretty weird but cool.Then we had a trek up a mountain which was nice (sweaty). the Spaniards werent impressed at this but there ya go...tyhey made it safely. Thankfully didnt get attacked by any eveil monkeys on the way as i was a bit worried aobut that.after lunch we went off in a boat again for a brilliant afternoon of kayaking anywhere. just paddled for ages around all the islands and under sea arches and into lagoons. Its soooooooo beautiful and peaceful there.Then today we got the boat back to the mainland and it was roasting so all just lay up on deck for the morning. Kieran had a bit of a fright cos he jumped off the boat for a swim but got caught in a current and was being dragged quite quickly away. took us a while to cop that he was actually not enjoying this and we eventually got down to find him holding onto the ledge of the boat by his fingernails. Dont know how it happenbed cos noone really wanted to get in after that but it was grand...only a slight pull after that. Although the driver started the boat before everyone was back on and then kids started crying and mothers were shouting and it was all very dramatic altogether.back in Hanoi now. Wandering around the cafes and markets. The locals were going nuts for an u23s football match between Vietnam and Thailand (2-1)Dont know what we are doing next. Maybe Sapa, maybe not.til then,byebyeybye

Letter from Phu Quoc

I am writing from the Thien Hai Son resort in Duong Dong town on Phu Quoc. The resort sits on Long Beach on the western side of the island. Our host is Mr. Thi, a vice-director with the Ministry of Fisheries in Hanoi whom we met when we first arrived. He is here in Phu Quoc because creating an MPA here in the archipelago of small islands at the southern tip of Phu Quoc is a priority for his agency. Other members of the team here, besides Ed and me are Mr. Linh who works for Mr. Thi and Mr. Huong who is our interpreter and socioeconomic specialist. Mr. Thi has graciously taken us all around the island, brought us out to the proposed MPA site by boat, and provided for meals along the way.I had assumed this island, because it was remote and in the far south near Cambodia, would be less heavily utilized than the rest of the coast of Vietnam and that it would be a lush tropical setting. I was wrong on both accounts. The island is quite arid most of the year and has very poor soil for growing crops. About 80% of the island is a national park for forest protection and represents the largest forested area remaining in Vietnam. There are many large hardwood trees in the forest and a fairly dense canopy but I’d call it semi-tropical arid hardwood forest- not a rainforest at all. Apparently there are monkeys, wild boar and deer in the forest. I’ve also seen two sea eagles along the coast- a majestic eagle similar in size to our bald eagle that feeds on fish.Despite the fact that it is an offshore island, Phu Quoc is heavily fished by local boats and by boats from many other Vietnamese provinces. It’s quite astounding how many boats there are, how often they are fishing, and the fishing power that each one represents. They use fine mesh nets to catch whatever they can usually at night with the aid of 10 or more high intensity lights. Supposedly the intensity of the lights is regulated but it’s not enforced. The main fisheries are anchovy, used to make famous Phu Quoc fish sauce, squid, and bottom fish. Trawlers are prevalent and are wreaking havoc on the bottom habitat according to local fishermen. The anchovy resource is extremely important and is apparently sustained by upwelling events in the southern island archipelago. Nuoc mam or fish sauce is Phu Quoc’s claim to fame. This fish sauce is revered throughout Vietnam and beyond for its purity and flavor- it’s unlike any other in the world. It’s made by dumping some anchovies in a huge vat, mixing them with salt and letting them rot and ferment for several months to years and then pouring off the refined fish oil product from the bottom of the vat. It’s served as a dipping sauce in a small side dish with many entrees in Vietnam.Today we met with the vice chairman of the Provincial People’s Party as well as several vice directors of the Department of Fisheries (DOFI). We learned that the plan is to make an MPA in the southern archipelago and to relocate hundreds of fishing families and boats to ports on the east and north coast of the island. The southern archipelago would then be available for development as an ecotourism area. It appears to be an incredibly ambitious plan but there does seem to be a plan in the works to carry it out. Time will tell.

ENCHANTING VIETNAM TOURS

HaNoi - HaLong - NinhBinh - MaiChau - Hue - DaNang - HoiAn - MySon - SaiGon - CuChi - TayNinh - MeKong Delta - SaiGonDay 1. Arrival in HanoiGreetting at Noi Bai airport and transfer to hotel. Overview of the Old Quarters by ricckshaw. Water puppetry show.Day 2. Hanoi – HalongHanoi city tour : Tran Quoc Pagoda, Temple of Literature. After lunch, proceed to Halong via Red River Delta . Overnight in Halong.Day 3. Halong – Ninh Binh6-hour cruise in Halong Bay with lunch onboard. Transfer to Ninh Binh. Overnight in Ninh Binh.Day 4. Ninh Binh – Mai Chau3-hour sampan ballade to visit “Inland Halong Bay”, then Hoa Lu.. Drive to Mai Chau . Overnight in a house on stilts of Thai minority.Day 5. Mai Chau – Hanoi – HueA short trek around Thai minority villages before driving back Hanoi. Leisure time before taking night train to Hue.Day 6. HueOn arrival at 07.50, visit to Hue , last imperial capital of Vietnam : the Imperial Palace, Royal Tombs. Enjor costume royal dinner.Day 7. Hue – Da Nang – Hoi AnBoat cruise on Perfume River to visit Thien Mu Pagoda. Heading south, visit Cham Art Museum, then visit Hoi An Ancient Town.Day 8. Hoi An – My Son – Hoi AnTransfer to visit My Son – former sanctuary of Indianized Champa Kingdom in the First Millenium. Back to Hoi An for overnight.Day 9. Hoi An – Da Nang – SaigonTransfer to Da Nang airport for flight to Saigon. Saigon city tour : visit former French Quarter and former Chinatown.Day 10. Saigon – My Tho – SaigonDrive to My Tho to visit Cai Be floating market on the Upper Mekong Branch. Back to Saigon for overnight.Day 11. Saigon - Cu Chi - Tay Ninh – SaigonTransfer to visit Cu Chi Tunnels, proceed on to visit Tay Ninh Cao Dai Holy See. Back to Saigon..Day 12. Saigon – DepartureFree time for shopping before transfer to airport for departure flight

Hanoi - Sapa

Well we arrived in Bangkok after a turbulent flight via Abu Dhabi (the airport there looked like somethinig out of Doctor Who?!) We had a quick burger king before getting on our connecting flight to Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam. When we arrived, we got into a taxi which took us to our Hotel, only to be told that the hotel was full, even though we had a room reserved! So we were taken to another hotel to stay in which was not very nice, but did teh job (we had no window in our room)! We stayed in Hanoi for one night and booked a tour to Sapa, in the north.We got the night train to Sapa, which was very noisy (not as nice as trains in Thailand) We got to Sapa and checked into our hotel which is nice and over looks the mountains and villages of the region and was immediately on our first trek just after check in! This was only a couple of hours of the local village which was good. Today, we went on a marathon trek which involved Aimee sliding down a hill on her bum and me ruining my lovely adidas trainers in mud! Oh well!!! We had to walk along very narrow ledges with sheer drops to the right, very scary!! Thank god for the walking sticks we bought before the trek! We have been paired up with a spanish couple for our treks (from the same hotel in Hanoi) who are very nice and lively! Tomorrow we are going on another trek and getting the night train back to Hanoi. When we get back to Hanoi, we are going to Halong Bay for one night and then on to Hoi an in cantral Vietnam. Will update when we are here. Hope all is well in UK!

TOur to SOUTH VIETNAM

SaiGon - VinhLong - CanTho - SaiGon - DaLatPhanthiet - SaiGon Day 1. Arrival in SaigonCity tour visit to fine examples of French colonial architecture, the Notre Dame Cathedral and the Old Saigon Post Office. In the afternoon, visit Thien Hau pagoda, Cho Lon, lacquer ware factory. Overnight in Saigon. Day 2. Saigon – Vinh Long – Can ThoTransfer to Vinh Long, full day trip to the watery world of the Mekong Delta. Take a boat trip along narrow waterways overhung with dense vegetation and try exotic fruits in one of the many orchards. Enjoy the landscape of the Mekong delta where we take a boat to visit Cai Be floating market. Lunch with local delicacy in the bonsai garden. Procede to Can Tho. Overnight in Can Tho. Day 3. Can Tho – SaigonMake an excursion to visit the biggest market in the Mekong Delta - Cai Rang floating market. Back to Saigon. Overnight in Saigon. Day 4. Saigon – Da LatLeave Saigon for a scenic drive through rubber and tea plantations en route to the cooler climes of Da Lat, 300km from saigon. Established as a hill station, Da Lat is reminiscent of an alpine town with its French chalets and pine forests. Visit of Prenn waterfall on the way, Hang Nga tree house, and the centre market. Overnight in Da Lat. Day 5. Da LatA free day to enjoy golf amongst the pines at the Da Lat Palace Golf Club. A masterpiece of design, the 72 Da Lat Palace course offers an enjoyable challenge for players of all levels and a through test for experienced players. Overnight in Da Lat Day 6. Da Lat – Phan ThietLeave Da Lat for the 250km drive from the hill down to Phan Thiet beach on the coastal plain via the scenic Marvellous Mountain Pass. Enjoy the time at the beach. Overnight in Phan Thiet. Day 7. Phan ThietA free day to enjoy the beach and playing golf at the Nick Faldo-designed Ocean Dunes Golf Club. A links course, Ocean Dunes is rated as Vietnam’ s second best course after the Da Lat course. Overnight in Phan Thiet. Day 8. Phan Thiet – Saigon - DepartureReturn to Saigon and transfer directly to the airport for departure flight.

ETHNIC MINORITIES IN NORTH-WEST HIGHLANDS Vietnam

Hanoi - Hoabinh - Maichau - Sonla - Dienbienphu - Laichau - Sapa - Bacha - Hanoi Day 1. Arrival in HanoiGreetting by our guide at Noi Bai airport and transfer to hotel. Enjoy the brief excursion to visit the Old Quarters by Cyclo in one hour. Enjoy the traditional performance of water puppetry. Dinner. Overnight in the hotel. Day 2. Hanoi – Hoa Binh – Mai ChauDrive to Mai Chau – home of white Thai minority. Enjoy songs and dance show by Thai amateur artists. Dinner and overnight in a house-on-stilts in a Thai village. Day 3. Mai Chau – Son LaTransfer to Son La – home town of the Black Thai, Meo, Muong and White Thai, on the way you take the chance to overview of Moc Chau highland, stops for photos and visiting minority villages. Overnight in Son La. Day 4. Son La – Dien Bien PhuDrive to Dien Bien Phu via the Pha Din Pass. Upon arrival, visit the former battlefield. Overnight in Dien Bien Phu. Day 5. Dien Bien Phu – Lai ChauDrive through a various scenery to reach Lai Chau with stop over for photos and visit to ethnic villages. Overnight in Lai Chau. Day 6. Lai Chau – Sa PaTransfer to Sa Pa, discover some nearby minority villages of Red Meo, Thai, Dzao. Arrive in Sa Pa, a highland resort 1600m above sea level in the northen province of Lao Cai, well-known for spectacular sceneries and multi-cultural acticities of hilltribes. Overnight in Sa Pa. Day 7. Sa PaVisit Ham Rong mountain, down town to Lao Chai village to visit the Black H’mong tribe, going along Sa Pa valley to get to Ta Van village to visit the Dzay, Cat Cat village of Black H’mong tribe and the waterfall.. Enjoy the time and communicate with the people and you will be impressed on their hand-made products. Overnight in Sa Pa. Day 8. Sa Pa – Bac HaTransfer to Bac Ha for visiting colourful Bac Ha market on Sunday where the Black Dzao, Black H’mong, Nung peoples exchange their embroidery, silverware and handicrafts. Enjoy corn wine when trekking to visit Pho village – home to H’mong minority. Overnight in Bac Ha. Day 9. Bac Ha – HanoiLight trekking to further explore the rustic villages before transfer to Hanoi. Overnight in Hanoi Day 10. Hanoi departureEnjoy free time for shopping beforee transfer to the airport for departure flight.

Day Two - In Hanoi

We woke up today at 5am, not bad considering we manageed to sleep through the night. Only thing is we totally passed out 6:30pm the night before! Had breakfast here at the hotel and got ready for our first adventure out. We first stopped by at Hoan Kiem Lake where I enjoyed first thing having a bird totally crap on my head! Poor Martin was trying not to laugh as we pulled out the alcohol wipes and purell. And yes they were in my back pocket, no messin' around especially with Avian Bird Flu. The travel clinic kind of missed "what to do when a bird poos on your head"! :)It was already stupid hot by 9:30am and had to keep walking to keep cool and finally sought refuge in a mini grocery store that had air conditioning. We ended up buy a $1.50 bottle of lotion just cuz. After that the strolled the streets of Old Hanoi which is where most the touristy shopping is. No surprise to my friends that my first purchase was a silk purse.Since we were in the area we headed over to Martin's cousins again to enjoy some lunch. After lunch we rode on the back of their scooters and zipped over to visit with another one of Martin's family members.We were then dropped off at one of the new malls here to check out what the shopping is like. Tired from the heat, humidity and pollution we opted to sit in cafe for a bit to get our bearings back.Headed back to the hotel for a quick snooze and now it's 7:00 pm and we are trying to figure out what to do for dinner. MIght end up getting room service again since we are both still very much out of it.Tomorrow we are going to visit one of the Pagoda's around here and maybe a couple museum's. We will be doing a day trip to Ha Long Bay on Wednesday so we hope to have beat the jet lag by then (well actually just Martin... my first stab at him on this journal :)